Peniscola Spain Travel Guide

Peniscola: officially one of Spain’s most beautiful towns

One of the aspects of Spain that I have always loved is how so many towns and cities seem to balance the old with the new. Known as the City in the Sea, Peñiscola is a rather striking example of this, with its Templar Castle and medieval walls that are enchantingly surrounded by water.

The former Papal Residence is also on the official list of Spain’s most beautiful towns. In fact in the province of Castellon we have three towns that make that list; the other two are Morella and Vilafames. 

In 1972 Peñiscola was declared to be an Historical Conservation Area, and in October 2015 it was a location for filming of Game of Thrones.

Peñiscola as a film location

Although being a film location is nothing new for Peñiscola, as it has played this role a number of times, including scenes from El Cid. It has been running its own Film Festival since 2008.

Films shot in Peñsicola include:

Ana Cadova (1914), The Joy of the Battalion (1924), Life is Wonderful (1955), Calabuch (1956), The Buccaneers of the Caribbean Sea (1960), El Cid , All were guilty (1962), Jo, pope! (1984), Fugue of the island of the devil (1984), Tramontana (1990), The day never in the afternoon (1994), Aluncinaciones (1978), The son of the priest (1982) , Tierra (1995), Paris-Tumbouti (1999), Mataharis (2007), Pizza Eli (2008) and Sinterklaas (2009).

Peñiscola in the Sunday Times & Condé Nast Traveller

When I originally wrote this Peñiscola Spain Travel Guide, in early 2014, almost no-one I knew back home had heard of Peñsicola. Of course that is changing gradually between some media coverage and the flights from the UK into Castellon Airport.

In April 2017 Peñiscola was featured in the prestigious Sunday Times newspaper, in the UK, in a feature titled: Spain’s secret weekends. It has also been featured as one of Condé Nast Traveller’s top towns in the community of Valencia.

Peñiscola: a special introduction in the Sunday Times

You’ve got to love the introduction about Peñiscola in the Sunday Times: Spain’s secret weekends.

“How on earth has a medieval city all but surrounded by the sea, with a humongous Templar castle, magnificent beaches and a passion for food that keeps more than 200 restaurants in business, managed to keep itself out of Britain’s holiday limelight? Maybe the name put the tour operators off.”

The stuff fairy tales are made of…

On a clear day I can see Peñíscola from the roof of our little country house, which is inland, around 25 miles away. The views of this piece of paradise are superb and rather unique, and can be seen from many vantage points along Spain’s Orange Blossom Coast (Costa Azahar). From a distance it is the dramatic contrast of the 14th century Templar castle, which rises majestically above the sea, that is a striking scene at any time of the day or night.

In fact at night, when it is all lit up, it becomes the magical stuff fairytales are made of. Even though my partner had over-sold Peñiscola to me, I was still truly bowled over when I saw it for the first time. In fact, even now, though I have lost count of the number of times I have seen it from afar or up close, I still feel it is one of the most uniquely beautiful views I have ever seen.

Walking through history & memories

What you can’t know from the distant views of Peñíscola is what lies inside those castle and city walls. Rising 64 metres above the azure blue sea, the castle and city walls envelope gorgeous windy cobbled stone streets, which are throbbing with the memories of centuries gone by, but at the same time are home to lots of little shops. Walking along these historic streets of the old town of Peñíscola, you need to stop quite frequently to take in the breath-taking views over the Mediterranean sea. Then it’s time to look back at the quaint aesthetic beauty of the old town.

Traditional Fishing Village | Culture and Lovely Beaches

Traditionally a fishing village, Peñíscola has been popular for a long time with Spanish tourists and also with some foreign tourists and today, tourism is its main economic activity, followed by fishing. The nationalities of the tourists can be split currently into around 80% Spanish, and 20% foreign tourists, with French tourists accounting for a fair bit of this percentage.

With a number of high end hotels, plenty of apart hotels, campsites and apartments on offer, this is a destination that is just waiting to be discovered by those who love culture, beaches, good food, amazing heritage, and the good life.

Did you know that there are around 200 restaurants to choose from in Peñiscola?

Family Friendly

Although for many the old town is the undisputed main attraction, along with the lovely beaches, Peñiscola has a large modern town, to cater for both residents and visitors. Just as the distant views of the town are a contrast of the castle over the sea, so is the town itself. The old town contrasts with the new town, and the busy summer season contrasts with the quiet winter season.

Some foreigners have made it home also, but in comparison to the nearby towns of Benícarlo and Vinaros, for now, it’s quieter during the winter. However it is totally buzzing in the summertime, and the water is a lovely temperature in the sea. The slope is very gradual as you wander into the sea, just under the majestic castle – so you can walk out for quite a while before you need to get into a bit of swimming.

Of course the shallow, calm waters in such a unique and stunning setting make it a great destination for families. In case you’re not aware, Spain in general, is a very family friendly destination.

Like other Mediterranean countries, the locals generally dote on children, and instead of feeling awkward in some restaurants, as can happen back in colder climes, you should get a warm welcome in most establishments for your younger family members.

Castellon Airport

When Castellon Airport opened on the 15th September 2015, we had no doubt that this would change the tourism in the Valencian Community, especially in the province of Castellon where Peñíscola is located, and for sure over time in Peniscola.

However for those of us who live in the area, we hope it will be beneficial to the area without bringing in the stag and hen brigade. It is hard to imagine Peñíscola, or the other towns, being spoilt like that.

Castellon Airport had its first flight paths up and running from the 15th September 2015 from Stansted, from the 16th September 2015 from Bristol. There will initially be three weekly flights from London Stansted UK, and two weekly flights from Bristol UK.

Fast forward a good few years later, as I update this in 2023, here are the current flight routes into Castellon Airport.

Peñíscola is known as the city within the sea, because it is connected only by a narrow land strip to the mainland. The castle is also known as the Castle of Pope Luna (Papa Luna) and can be visited for an admission fee. It is well worth the fee, but be warned that in July and August, you need to be prepared to sweat as you tour inside the castle. You can of course wander around the exterior for free, where there are amazing sea views.

Pope Luna (Papa Luna) | Antipope Benedict XIII

Before entering you are greeted by an impressive bronze statue of Pope Luna at the entrance of the Templar fortress castle, which was constructed between 1294 and 1307. Pope Luna (originally Pedro Martínez de Luna y Pérez de Gotor, of one of the 12 noble families of Aragon) was Pope between 1394 and 1417, and due to the Great Schism he was anti-Pope from 1417 until he died in 1423.

He came to Peñíscola in 1415, after he had refused to surrender his Papal tiara to the Council of Perpignan. The Master of the Order of Montesa, Romeu de Cabrera, offered him the fortress and Pope Luna accepted and turned it into his Papal court. If you would like to know more about the fascinating story of Papa Luna, please click on Pope Luna Peñíscola (Antipope Benedict XIII)

Church of the Virgen del Socorro – Iglesia de la Virgen del Socorro- Parish Church Formerly Known As Santa María

Carrer de Don Juan José Fulladosa Sanz, 3, 12598 Peñíscola Castelló Phone: +34 964 48 00 11 In the 15th century the church was damaged in a fire, which led to some reconstruction, including its Gothic starry vault. It is thought to date back originally to the 12th century. It is situated in the old town.

Ermita de la Mare de Déu d’Ermitana Peñiscola – Hermitage of the Mother of God

The Sanctuary of the Mare de Deu d’Ermitana is attached to Pope Luna’s castle and because of this sometimes visitors think it is the parish church. It was built between 1708 and 1714 in Valencian Baroque style. For the locals, it holds great importance for hosting the image of the Virgin.

The Sea Museum – Museo de la Mar Peñiscola

Calle Príncipe, Phone: 964 481 603, E-mail: museu@peniscola.org

Opening Hours: July to September: 10.00 to 14.00 and 16.00 to 20.00 April to June: 10.00 to 14.00 and 16.00 to 20.00 October to June: 10.00 to 14.00 and 16.00 to 18.00

It is thought that the original building where today’s Sea Museum is housed, can be dated back to medieval times. However it was during the 18th century when it was reshaped into the form we see today; at that time its purpose was to be an artillery barracks.

From 1912 on it was reconditioned to be used as classrooms, but once these local schools moved out of the buildings in 1969 it was left abandoned. That was until 1993 when restoration works began under the Taller School, with further work being carried out in 1996 to customise it for use as a museum.

The goal of the Sea Museum is to preserve and promote the seafaring cultural heritage of the town. Peñíscola’s Sea/Maritime Musuem is located in the most easterly wall of the promontory on the Prince’s Bastion, and inside you’ll see the seafaring heritage divided into three themes:

– Fishing and marine life

– History

– Archaeology

Marine species are featured in three aquariums, there are model ships, graphic documents, as well as archaeological pìeces and ethnological exhibits. Additionally the museum has multimedia displays.

Where to Eat

Restaurants